Hello everyone, long time no see! You all must have heard about gunpla and most of you had even built one already. We all know that nippers play a crucial part in assembling gunplas. But how about sanding products? Sanding is a necessary step that will make your gunpla look better. Either you are painting or modifying your gunpla or try to get rid of annoying nub marks, choosing the right sanding product is important.
Today's Blog is going to be the sanding products which we are currently carrying at our store at the moment, which are Kamiyasu Sanding Sponges, Mineshima glass file and Mineshima diamond sticks. When choosing sanding products, it is best to select grits that are suitable for each usage scenario. Using the wrong grits can cause irreversible damage to the plastic parts. It may get tricky, and the user may feel overwhelmed at first. Still, after spending enough time practicing, users will eventually feel increasingly comfortable with the sanding products and eventually create their unique technique.
The sanding grits are divided into three tiers: rough, medium, and buffing. From #120 to #400 grits, it is considered rough and takes away a lot of plastics if used too much or applied too much force. Mainly these types of grits are used for removing any type of debris or to smooth out enough the surface of the plastics as prior for painting or after the modification to take away the excess plastics. They can be used to eliminate nub marks, which remain after cutting plastic pieces from the runners.
For the higher grits from # 600, # 800, to # 1000. This is mainly used by Gunpla builders. Starting with # 600 grit, it is a little rougher that the # 800 type of grit but less aggressive than the # 400. It is used to take away the nub marks surfaces until the marks are on the same level surface as the rest of the surrounding areas. Then, the # 800 grit sponge is used as a medial step to smooth out the surface of the removed nubs and # 1000 grit sponge is used as the buffing tool.
For anything that higher than # 1000 grit is mainly used for buffing the plastic parts. Some users may be satisfied with the result and will stop at # 1000 grit while others want their model kits to look glossier. That is when # 8000, # 10000, and even # 15000 grit are used.
Sanding sponges come with different sizes and shapes for certain type usage scenarios. The bulky rectangular sponges are easy to use because they provide more gripping areas compared to thinner ones, hence it easier to use, especially on flat and open surfaces. However, thinner sponges are more expandable. They work well in most areas of plastic parts. On the curved surface for example, users can use their index and middle finger to hold on on each end of the sponge then wrap around the plastic part and proceed to the sanding process. They can also cut the sponge into smaller chunks to sand on smaller areas, where it is unreachable using bigger sponges.
For glass files, however, the only choice is # 2000 grits. Since it is a harder surface than the sponges and works more aggressively, it requires more attention from the user to prevent over sanding. Using this file, users may skip the # 600 to # 1000 grit sanding process, which is more convenient for those who have stricter time schedules.
Diamond files are made of metal and rated at 400 grits; hence, it will cause severe damage to the plastics if too much force is applied or wrong placement is held on plastic pieces. This type of sanding tool requires more of the user's focusing power. A pack of diamond file tools comes with three sticks with three different shapes which is helpful for using in different situations. A flat and square file has the biggest working surface which is great for using on flat surfaces. The medium side file is flat but has a pointy curved end and both sides semi rounded, which can be used in areas that cannot be reached using square files, such as curved parts of plastic. The last file has the appearance of reassembling a BBQ skewer with a pointed end which is most suitable for tiny gaps between surfaces. Keep in mind, due to the thickness of these diamond files and depending on the shape of surfaces, they can be used interchangeably in variable situations.
In case of use, whether you are preparing for painting or trying to make nub marks disappear, there are always two most important rules when it comes to sanding: the force and applying methods. Too much force, especially with rough grits, will ruin the plastics and cause uneven surfaces between them or may cause irreversible damage. Try not to sand too fast to prevent scratching the unwanted areas of the plastic parts. Only sand in slow, but steady motion instead, and in one way direction if possible; that way will give users full control of the tools without compromising their projects. It is not less important to clean your sanding tools before applying onto next parts.
In the end, sanding is a part of building gunpla even though it isn't a requirement. However, if it is your goal to make your model kits look great and shiny, then sanding becomes necessary. By choosing the right tools and with correct sanding methods, the chance that you will make gunpla look better than its original form is at hand. In my opinion, the entry grades are the best choice to start practicing because they are simple to build and the price is cheap. Hence it is a perfect choice for users who want to practice their sanding skills before moving on to other grades. Sanding is a part of Gunpla builders, and it is meant to make their model kits look better. However, it is also a time-consuming process. Therefore, don’t feel discouraged when the results aren’t what you expected at first.
It is always better to start small at first and then create something bigger later, don’t you think!? I hope everyone will enjoy your time building your gunpla and I will see ya’ll on the next post.
-Novice coordinator.